SOME THOUGHTS ON UZBEK NATIONAL CLOTHING (HOOD AND TUNIC)

Аннотация

This article discusses the Uzbek national clothing. The use of ancient clothing in the lifestyle of the population of our country since ancient times, their types and convenience for use in the economy are highlighted. Also, historical information and the opinions of our scientists about the skullcap are presented. Its role as a national headdress and its symbols are discussed. Key words: Intangible cultural heritage related to skullcaps, robes, shirts, trousers, boots, work, family clothes The Resolution of the President of the Republic of Uzbekistan No. PQ- 405 dated December 25, 2023 “On additional measures to protect, develop scientific research and promotion of intangible cultural heritage” has become an impetus for a wider study of intangible cultural heritage in our country and new scientific research. Today, the widespread promotion of intangible cultural heritage, the dissemination of our national games and values to the younger generation has risen to the level of state policy. Every nation has its own national costumes that reflect its identity and speak of its long history. In particular, Uzbek national costumes have been formed over many centuries and have been improving inextricably linked to the history, culture, and unique lifestyle of our people. In ancient times, men's clothing consisted mainly of a shirt and a cloak. Their clothes were slightly tight-fitting. Their length reached to the knees. They were tied with a belt at the waist. Their hats were flat or conical caps. Their shoes consisted of soft, turned-up boots. Men of the 5th century AD are depicted as strong, round-faced, almond- shaped eyes, with short-cropped hair and no beard. Their clothing is suitable for horseback riding, with short caftans and shirts, wide trousers and high-heeled boots. In Tokharistan, only male and female servants wore belts, while noble women did not.[1] At the end of the 7th and beginning of the 8th centuries, the style of clothing of the peoples of Central Asia became more complex. During this period, loose, lightweight clothing appeared that was comfortable to wear and fit the body. 47 CURRENT APPROACHES AND NEW RESEARCH IN MODERN SCIENCES International scientific-online conference Another thing to note is that the coats of this period were fastened with buttons or ties. Buttons were mainly found on the clothes of the rich. Buttons were found on coats until the 19th century. As a part of our national identity, our skullcaps have not lost their value even today. Continuing the tradition of the master and the disciple, skullcap- making schools continue to operate today. The skullcap, which was still common in the 19th century, was made of gazmol and was usually embroidered with silk or silver and gold threads. In the 20th century, skullcaps with a square or round top appeared. Skullcaps with almond and pepper patterns were worn in Fergana and Tashkent. The earliest information about the skullcap can be found in archaeological sites, wall inscriptions, and oriental miniature art of the 15th- 16th centuries.[2] According to experts, skullcaps were widespread in Uzbekistan from the 10th-12th centuries. Initially, they served as ordinary clothing, but later they rose to the level of a national headdress. The art of skullcap making was included in the National Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Uzbekistan in 2018. Today, skullcaps from Tashkent, Chust, Kokand, Margilan, Andijan, Samarkand, Bukhara and Shahrisabz are popular in our Republic. Skullcaps from each region differ from each other in their symbols. For example, Andijan skullcaps have symbols that indicate that children have given in response to requests, state requests, and those whose business has failed, may their right side fall on the side of income, and their left side fall on the side of income. If there are quarrels in the house, they draw water waves so that the house becomes as clear as water In the 1930s, the Chust hats were created in the Fergana region. They were widely used in other regions due to their beauty, comfort, and elegance. After the Chust hats for men in the Fergana region, Margilan hats were created in their imitation. Margilan hats were also made mainly of black satin and silk fabrics, with cotton fabric for the lining.[3] Art historian M. Faziliy believes that the image on the skullcap is associated with the fetus, which ensures the continuation of generations, while other researchers argue that the images of peppercorns on the skullcap are a magical means of protection that protects the owner of the skull from various misfortunes. In the past, in some cases, when a wedding was arranged and the groom could not attend his wedding for certain reasons, the bride was married to his skullcap or knife. 48 CURRENT APPROACHES AND NEW RESEARCH IN MODERN SCIENCES International scientific-online conference Tun- a long, light, straight-cut national outer garment with a stand-up collar, open in front, and lined with cotton. Th